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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.